In short. There is no universal wheel nut torque. The figure is your car maker's, and the documents we read give 120, 125, 160 and 175 N·m for different cars and fixings (89, 92, 118 and 129 lb ft); the wheel makers' association (EUWA) says to tighten to the figure in the vehicle maker's instructions, with a torque wrench, in stages, crosswise, and to check again after 50 to 100 km. Most of the torque you apply is lost to friction, which is why oil or grease on the thread changes the clamp load. The nut or bolt has to match the wheel's seat (cone, ball or flat), its thread and its length. In Great Britain the MOT fails one loose or missing nut, bolt or stud as major, more than one as dangerous, and a wheel and fixings that do not match as major. Locking nuts take the car's torque, set with a torque wrench, and no impact gun.
Why a number, and why yours
A wheel is held on by friction between the wheel and the hub, and that friction comes from the clamp load the nuts or bolts create. Torque is how a workshop sets that load without measuring it. Too little, and EUWA says the wheel can come off; too much, and the wheel disc can deform or a bolt can fail (EUWA ES 1.07, 3.5).
The figure is not the same for every car, because the studs, the thread, the seat and the hub differ. That is why EUWA does not give one: it says the screws or nuts of all disc wheels are fastened to the torque in the vehicle manufacturer's instructions, and that a torque wrench is highly recommended. UN Regulation 124, on replacement wheels for passenger cars, asks the wheel maker to supply fitting instructions that draw attention to the tightening torque and the need to preferably use a calibrated torque wrench, and to say that the fixing must be re-tightened after 50 km (UN R124, Annex 10, 1.4).
Where to find yours: the owner's handbook, the service manual, or, for a replacement wheel, the fitting sheet that comes with it. In the US they are lug nuts and the figure is usually quoted in lb ft; the figure itself is the same.
Values from the documents
| Document | Fixing | Torque in N·m | In lb ft |
|---|---|---|---|
| Porsche bulletin 38/25 (911, type 992), October 2025 | Wheel bolts | 160 | 118 |
| Porsche bulletin 38/25 | Central wheel lock | 600 | 442.5 |
| Tesla Model 3 service manual, 2024 onwards | Five wheel nuts | 175 | 129.1 |
| German federal motor transport authority (KBA) communication for a replacement wheel, variant V7 | M14x1.5 bolts, 26 mm ball seat | 120 | 88.5 |
| Same communication, variant L1 | M12x1.5 nuts, 60 degree cone seat | 125 | 92.2 |
Sources: Porsche bulletin, Tesla service manual, KBA variants V7 and L1. Conversions use 1 lb ft = 1.355818 N·m (NIST SP 811).
These are four cars and fixings, not a pattern to copy. Do not read a figure across from one to another: the KBA documents name a car maker and a fixing for each figure, and the Porsche one is for its own bolts. Some retailers' charts publish separate ranges for steel and alloy wheels, and none of the maker documents we read says an alloy wheel takes more torque than a steel one: they all refer to the vehicle maker's figure.
Check the unit. A figure in daN·m is a tenth of the number in N·m (12 daN·m is 120 N·m), and one kgf·m is 9.80665 N·m (NIST SP 811); a manual that gives kgf·m has a number about ten times smaller than the N·m figure.
Why friction decides the clamp load
The usual relation for a nut or bolt is T = K × D × F: the torque T, a friction factor K, the nominal diameter D and the clamp load F. Bolt Science, an engineering site on bolted joints, writes it that way and notes that K is "often taken as 0.2" (glossary). It also says friction absorbs usually 85 to 95 per cent of the torque you apply (Bolt Science): only a small share becomes clamp load, so a small change in friction is a large change in the load.
Here is the arithmetic for the 125 N·m figure above, on an M12 thread (D = 0.012 m), with the assumption K = 0.2:
| Case | K | Clamp load per stud |
|---|---|---|
| Dry, K as Bolt Science's usual figure | 0.20 | 52.1 kN |
| Friction lower by a quarter (oil on the thread, an assumption) | 0.15 | 69.4 kN |
The same wrench reading gives a third more load if the friction falls by a quarter. This is arithmetic under stated assumptions, not a measurement on a wheel: we do not know the K of any particular wheel and stud, and the sums show size, not a figure to aim for. Torque control itself scatters: Bolt Science puts the tightening factor of torque wrench tightening at 1.6, so the highest clamp load among nuts tightened to the same reading can be 1.6 times the lowest (Bolt Science).
The UN test for replacement wheels shows that torque does not stay put. The fixings are tightened to the vehicle maker's figure and tightened again after about 10,000 cycles, and the test accepts a loss of the initial torque of up to 30 per cent (UN R124). That is the reason for the second check below.
Oil, grease or dry
The documents do not agree, and the date matters.
| Source | What it says about the threads |
|---|---|
| EUWA ES 1.09 (the older recommendation) | A small amount of oil on the nut and stud threads may be used against rust; take care not to over-lubricate |
| EUWA ES 1.02 (May 2011) and ES 1.07 (June 2020) | Nuts and stud threads carefully cleaned and not lubricated, unless the vehicle maker's manual says otherwise; ES 1.07 adds that excessive lubrication may cause wheel loss and allows small amounts of oil only on the centring area of the centre hole, against rust |
| McGard (locking nut maker) | No oil, grease or anti-seize on the threads |
Sources: ES 1.09, 2.5; ES 1.02, 5; ES 1.07, 3.4; McGard.
The arithmetic above says why: the car maker's figure was set for a thread in a given state, and a slippery thread turns the same torque into more load. The newest EUWA texts say clean and dry unless the maker's manual says otherwise; follow the manual of the car, and when it is silent, do not lubricate.
Which nuts or bolts
Three things have to match the wheel, and EUWA states what follows when they do not: any wrong combination of type, shape of radius or angle, or length may cause the screw or nut to loosen or the wheel to fail (EUWA ES 1.07, 3.3).
The seat. The seat is the surface where the nut or bolt presses on the wheel. EUWA describes two ways a wheel is centred. Where the wheel centres on the hub spigot (a short cylinder on the hub), the wheel is made to a tighter tolerance, usually with plain cylindrical holes and nuts with a flat seat and a captive washer, a form EUWA ties to ISO 4107. Where the studs centre the wheel, the holes are countersunk, conical or spherical, and EUWA asks for great care in matching the nut and its washer to the particular countersink (EUWA ES 1.02, 2.2 and 2.3). The KBA documents above show both a ball seat and a 60 degree cone. McGard names the seats cone, radius, flat and shank. The pattern and bore are in the PCD and centre bore guide.
The thread. The two KBA examples are M14x1.5 and M12x1.5: diameter in millimetres, then pitch. The thread must match the stud or hub, and it must engage enough: McGard asks for a minimum thread engagement equal to the diameter of the stud, and UN R124 asks that a replacement wheel's fixings give the same length of thread engagement as the vehicle maker's own (UN R124, Annex 10, 2.3). Its list of fitting instructions (1.4) gives longer bolts or studs with alloy wheels as an example of a substitute fixing, so the length is part of the choice. A wheel spacer adds thickness that the thread has to make up for: see wheel spacers explained.
The condition. EUWA says studs and nuts that show rust or are hard to tighten should be replaced (ES 1.02, 5).
McGard describes a fit check you can see: look for a gap between the wheel and the nut or washer. A gap can mean the nut has bottomed out on the stud, so it is the wrong set for the car. If the wheel is not from the car maker, the fitting sheet that comes with it should name the fixings, and the what size wheels fit my car guide covers the rest of the fit.
How to tighten: six steps
- Clean the contact surfaces. The faces between the wheel and the hub must be clean and free of foreign matter; EUWA lists vibration, damage to a highly stressed area, and loss of torque and then of the wheel as the risks.
- Start every nut by hand. That is McGard's instruction for its locks, and a sensible habit for the rest.
- Go in stages, not straight to the final figure.
- Go crosswise, one nut and then the one opposite or furthest away, not round the circle. EUWA gives the risk as deformation of the wheel centre and vibration.
- Finish with a torque wrench at the car maker's figure. EUWA's other texts also allow a hand impact nut runner as prescribed, or a tool made to reach the specified torque; a full-power impact gun is not among the tools they name.
- Check again after 50 to 100 km (30 to 60 miles), on a new car and after any wheel or tyre change. The KBA documents say to do it every time the nuts or bolts have been undone. McGard says re-torque its locks after 25 miles.
Locking wheel nuts
A locking wheel nut replaces one nut or bolt on each wheel with one whose head has a pattern that only its key fits. Carbuyer notes that most cars have one per wheel, with a matching key; the key is usually kept with the spare wheel, in the boot, or in the glovebox with the handbook (Carbuyer).
McGard's instructions are the most specific we found:
- Start each lock by hand and tighten it with the key and a wrench. Treat the lock as the first fastener off and the last on.
- Use the torque in the car's manual, and a torque wrench and socket for best results.
- Do not use an impact gun on a lock; it can over-tighten and damage the lock and the key.
- Re-torque after 25 miles.
- Do not use oil, grease or anti-seize on the threads.
- To free a lock that has been over-tightened, tighten the other nuts on that wheel a little to take the load off the lock, press the key in firmly, and if it still will not turn, loosen one or two of the other nuts and try again.
If you lose the key. Carbuyer gives two routes. Look for the code that came with the set and order a replacement key from the maker, which it calls the more expensive route. Or ask a tyre specialist to fit a universal locking set; Carbuyer says that is cheaper, and the nuts are then no longer unique to your car. A removal kit can be bought, but Carbuyer advises a specialist instead, who has equipment that avoids damaging the wheel. If the container the key came in is also lost, the maker cannot send a replacement.
What the MOT and the law say
The MOT manual lists these under road wheels:
| Manual reference | What the tester records | Category |
|---|---|---|
| 5.2.1 (a)(i) | A wheel with a loose or missing wheel nut, bolt or stud | Major |
| 5.2.1 (a)(ii) | A wheel with more than one loose or missing | Dangerous |
| 5.2.2 (d) | A wheel and its fixings not compatible | Major |
Source: MOT inspection manual, 5.2.1 and 5.2.2. The manual has no item on torque values, and its section on wheels does not mention locking nuts. The manual's items are about nuts that are missing or loose, not about a torque value. The full list of what is checked on wheels is in the guide to new wheels and the MOT.
Outside the MOT, regulation 100(1) of the Construction and Use Regulations requires a vehicle's parts and accessories to be in such condition that no danger is caused or likely to be caused to anyone on or off the vehicle or on a road (legislation.gov.uk, England, Wales and Scotland). It does not name wheel nuts, but a wheel that comes off is the plainest example.
Wheels from Onyx Forged
We do not publish a torque for your car, and we do not ask you for one: the figure is the vehicle maker's, as above. The Onyx Forged design office works out the wheel for the car as you described it. If you are unsure which fixings a made-to-order wheel takes, ask customer service before fitting, not after. The terms and conditions exclude from the warranty bad fitting and fixings that do not match the specification (article 6.2), which is one more reason to check the seat, the thread and the length first.
Frequently asked questions
What torque should wheel nuts be?
The one in the car maker's instructions for your car. The documents we read give 120, 125, 160 and 175 N·m (89, 92, 118 and 129 lb ft) for four different cars and fixings; no one figure applies to all. EUWA, the wheel makers' association, says to use the vehicle maker's figure.
Is there a different torque for alloy wheels?
None of the maker documents we read gives one. Some retailers publish separate ranges for steel and alloy; EUWA and the KBA documents point to the vehicle maker's figure, which is set for the fixing, not the wheel material.
Should I put grease or copper slip on wheel studs?
Not unless the car's manual says so. EUWA's newest texts (2011 and 2020) say clean and not lubricated; its older recommendation allows a little oil against rust; the locking nut maker McGard says no oil, grease or anti-seize. Friction sets how much clamp load a given torque makes.
Can I use an impact wrench on wheel nuts?
EUWA allows a hand impact nut runner as prescribed, or a tool made to reach the car maker's torque; it recommends a torque wrench for the final figure. McGard says not to use one to install a locking nut. An impact gun at full power does not stop at a figure.
When should I re-torque wheel nuts?
After 50 to 100 km (30 to 60 miles) on a new car and after any wheel or tyre change, and every time the nuts have been undone, according to EUWA and the KBA documents. McGard says 25 miles for its locks. In the UN test for replacement wheels, a loss of up to 30 per cent of the initial torque is allowed.
What happens if wheel nuts are too tight or too loose?
EUWA says too tight can deform the wheel disc or make a bolt fail, and too loose can lose the wheel. The MOT fails one loose or missing nut, bolt or stud as major and more than one as dangerous.
What if I lose the locking wheel nut key?
Find the code that came with the set and order a key from the maker, or ask a tyre specialist to fit a universal set. Carbuyer advises a specialist over a removal kit, because a specialist has equipment that avoids damaging the wheel. If the container with the code is also lost, the maker cannot send a key.
Can I use my old nuts on new wheels?
Only if the seat, thread and length match the new wheel. EUWA lists the type of screws or nuts among the things to check against the hub, and warns that a wrong combination can loosen or fail. The wheel's fitting sheet should say; the MOT fails a wheel and fixings that are not compatible as major.
Where to go next
If a wheel has been repaired or has hit a kerb, read alloy wheel repair; a vibration after a fit may be a balance matter, not a torque one. For steel wheels and their nuts, see alloy against steel wheels. Onyx Forged is a French brand of made-to-order forged wheels, designed to JWL/VIA standards: see Onyx Forged and the catalogue.
Sources
- EUWA, ES 1.07, Safety and Service Instructions for the use of Wheels in Tyre Workshops (June 2020), section 3.
- EUWA, ES 1.02, Using Description Including the Fixation (May 2011); EUWA, ES 1.09, Safety and Service Recommendations for Wheels.
- UN Regulation No. 124, replacement wheels: the fatigue test and Annex 10, sections 1.4 and 2.3.
- Tesla, Model 3 service manual 2024+, torque specifications for wheels and tyres; Porsche AfterSales, bulletin 911 (992) 38/25 (7 October 2025).
- Kraftfahrt-Bundesamt communication no. 1751 under UN Regulation No. 124, variant V7 and variant L1, in German and English.
- GOV.UK, MOT inspection manual, sections 5.2.1 and 5.2.2; The Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1986, regulation 100.
- Bolt Science: glossary, how to tighten a bolt, preload variation by tightening method.
- McGard, installation and removal instructions; Carbuyer, locking wheel nuts explained (17 May 2021).
- NIST Special Publication 811, Appendix B.9, conversion factors.
All pages were read on 15 October 2026.
The Onyx Forged design office.